Pillar Candles - made in moulds to stand alone.
Pillar waxes are strong waxes that will contract for easy removal, also have a higher melt temperature so they don't melt and drip too easily. Typically paraffin with its additives, palm wax, beeswax and Soy PB are used for stand alone, moulded candles.
As the wax contracts, it will form dips and cavities, cracks or other unwanted features.
To avoid flaws, follow these simple instructions to make a perfect pillar candle.
The photos in this article are all Palm wax - they make the most rewarding natural candles - they look spectacular and burn really well.
There is high chance that the wax will track through the wick and out past your seal - be sure to cover the wick completely with sealer (blue tack).
Melt your wax over a double boiler - see our previous blog
If you are after a crystal pattern from your palm wax, raise the water to boil, so the wax increases to about 95°C. Metal moulds work best as they heat quickly and allow the wax to form crystals at its own pace.
The shell forms quickly and becomes quite rigid appearing to have no contraction - break the surface regularly as the candle cools so there is a channel into the insides for topping up later.
The pour temperature is dependent on the moulds: metal can be poured high, as can silicon, but be mindful of manufacturer's recommendations on PVC etc.
Hot pours will give a shiny finish; 'cold' pours will lose the crystal patters of the pam and also become textured. This can be a good effect if youa re looking for a more rustic look - try paraffin with additives poured below 70C for a great look.
Once the candle is cold, it can be topped up like any other candle, the base tidied and the wick waxed.